Suspended brick-red hoods lend Pepe a dramatic air. Luca Fantin, most recently behind his eponymous restaurant at the Bulgari Ginza tower in Tokyo, is running the show at this Montenapoleone newcomer where the atmosphere is decidedly relaxed. Settle into a stool at one of the lively walnut counters and look onto the kitchen whipping up spit-roasted chicken skewers interspersed with kale and potato and tagliatelle strewn with toasted saffron pistils, a play on the city’s beloved golden risotto.

Corso Giacomo Matteotti, 9, 20121